Beauty Science · Knowledge

Ingredient Library

What each cosmetic ingredient does, at what level, and what the evidence actually supports.

What each cosmetic ingredient does, at what level, and what the evidence actually supports.

These pages cover the ingredients used across the Vegalab and Youlief ranges — what each one is, the level it is typically used at, and what the evidence supports at that level. Concentration matters more in cosmetics than almost any other factor, and an ingredient present at a trace is not the same claim as the same ingredient at a studied level.

Several entries are group pages rather than single ingredients, because the useful content is the comparison. The vitamin C forms differ in stability and in what has actually been tested; the humectants differ in molecular weight and in what they do without an occlusive over them. A page per molecule would repeat itself and bury the comparison that answers the question.

Where the evidence is thin, the page says so rather than filling the gap with supplier material. Some of these ingredients have decades of independent clinical work behind them; others have a single in-vitro study and a lot of marketing. Both situations are described plainly, with study type and funding labelled.

Claims stay cosmetic throughout, describing appearance rather than physiological structures, and findings are attributed to the researchers who produced them.

Each page carries the level the ingredient is actually used at in the range, where that is known, alongside the level the studies used. Those two numbers are frequently different, and a page that gives you only the second is not telling you much about the product in front of you.

Where an ingredient also appears in the crop range, it is covered in full once and linked from the other pillar rather than written twice. Rosemary oil is a pesticidal active in crop science and a fragrance and antimicrobial component in skincare — one molecule, two genuinely different use cases, and one page that states which is which.

Pages in this section

Tier Tier 1

Adenosine

Adenosine appears at exactly 0.04% in eight of twelve Youlief products. That number is not a coincidence — here is what it means.

Tier Group

AHAs: mandelic and lactic acid

Alpha hydroxy acids differ mainly by molecular size, and size determines how fast they work and how much they sting.

Tier Tier 1

Alpha-arbutin

A hydroquinone glycoside that inhibits tyrosinase without hydroquinone's regulatory and safety baggage.

Tier Tier 1

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol is marketed as a gentler retinol alternative. What it shares with retinoids, what it does not, and how strong the comparison really is.

Tier Tier 1

Beta-glucan

A polysaccharide with genuine immunomodulatory activity — and a molecular weight that makes topical delivery the central question.

Tier Tier 1

Biotin (vitamin B7)

Genuinely essential for keratin production, genuinely useful in deficiency, and genuinely unsupported for hair growth in people who are not deficient.

Tier Group

Black soybean and beer yeast

Two 20% inclusions anchoring the density line. Substantial levels, traditional use, and a modest evidence base.

Tier Group

Botanical extracts in the range

Twenty-plus botanical extracts appear across the two ranges. What each is claimed to contribute, and how to tell a standardised extract from a label i

Tier Tier 1

Caffeine

Real vasoconstrictive and phosphodiesterase-inhibiting activity, a legitimate use for periorbital puffiness, and a much weaker case for everything els

Tier Group

Ceramides and the barrier lipid triad

Ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids in roughly equimolar proportion are what the stratum corneum is actually made of. Ratio matters more than

Tier Group

Collagen: topical versus oral

Nine collagen forms appear across the range. Topical collagen cannot become your collagen — but that is not the same as saying it does nothing.

Tier Flagship

Delivery systems compared

Liposomes, multi-layer biopolymer capsules, cyclodextrins and microneedles all solve different parts of the same problem. What each actually does.

Tier Tier 1

Ectoin

An extremolyte from salt-loving bacteria that works by organising water rather than by binding it. Distinctive, well-evidenced, and barely covered in

Tier Tier 1

Ergothioneine

An amino acid antioxidant that cells actively transport rather than passively absorb — which makes it unusual, and unusually interesting.

Tier Group

Ferments and biotech ingredients

Seven ferment ingredients across the range. Fermentation genuinely changes what an ingredient contains — but the term covers everything from well-char

Tier Tier 1

Glutathione

The most oversold brightening ingredient in the category. What the evidence supports for topical, oral and intravenous use — which are three very diff

Tier Tier 1

Green tea and catechins

One of the best-evidenced botanical antioxidants, at an unusually high inclusion in this range — and a stability problem worth understanding.

Tier Group

Humectants compared

Glycerin, betaine, trehalose, sodium PCA and the rest all hold water — but they behave differently in dry air, and one of them is quietly the best-evi

Tier Group

Licorice actives

Glycyrrhiza-derived actives with genuine anti-inflammatory and pigmentation activity — and, in this range, levels that require an honest note.

Tier Group

Marine and algae extracts

Ten marine ingredients across the range, from well-characterised polysaccharides to extracts identified only by species.

Tier Tier 1

Melatonin in skincare

Better known as a sleep hormone, but a capable antioxidant with a legitimate topical rationale — and some claims that outrun the evidence.

Tier Flagship

Niacinamide (vitamin B3)

Niacinamide at 2%, 5% and 15% — what changes with concentration, why the vitamin C warning is largely a myth, and where tolerance limits sit.

Tier Tier 1

Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5)

One of the few genuinely uncontroversial actives: humectant, barrier support and soothing, with a real conversion mechanism and almost no downside.

Tier Group

Peptides in skincare, decoded

Twelve differently named peptides appear across the range. The naming is impenetrable, the mechanisms are real, and the concentrations are the part no

Tier Flagship

Retinoids: retinal, retinol and the rest

Retinal, retinol, retinyl esters and tretinoin differ by how many conversion steps they need. What that means for strength, irritation and formulation

Tier Tier 1

Salicylic acid (BHA)

Oil-soluble, keratolytic, and the only common exfoliant that gets into a pore. Why solubility is the whole point.

Tier Tier 1

Silk proteins: fibroin and sericin

Two proteins from the same cocoon with different jobs. Fibroin is the structural fibre, sericin the glue that holds it — and sericin is the more inter

Tier Tier 1

Squalane

The saturated version of a lipid your own skin makes. Stable, non-comedogenic, and one of the least controversial emollients available.

Tier Tier 1

Tranexamic acid

A plasmin inhibitor repurposed for pigmentation. How it differs from tyrosinase inhibitors, and why 5% topical is a meaningful number.

Tier Group

UV filters in the Youlief sunscreens

Seven filters across three sunscreens, all modern photostable organics. What each covers, and why the combinations look the way they do.

Tier Group

Vitamin C forms compared

L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid are not interchangeable. Stability, conversion and evidence all differ.

40 pages in this section.

Product claims, registrations and availability vary by jurisdiction. Always read and follow the applicable product label.