Botanical extracts in the range

How to read a botanical extract

Three questions settle most of it. Which plant part, since root, leaf and fruit extracts of the same species differ chemically. What is it standardised to, since an extract with a named marker compound at a stated percentage is assessable and one without is not. And at what level, since botanical extracts in cosmetics span from several percent down to parts per billion.

A further wrinkle visible in this range: several botanicals are declared with the function "Fragrance Ingredient" — Camellia sinensis leaf water and Laminaria japonica in the Youlief Setup Cream, Curcuma longa root extract in DIA Toning. That is most likely an INCI-database default rather than the intended use, but it is what the documentation says, and a page should not claim active function for an ingredient declared as fragrance.

The better-characterised ones

Purslane (Portulaca oleracea), Youlief Setup Toner at 0.1% and across several Vegalab products — omega-3 fatty acids and betalains, used as an anti-irritant.

Eclipta prostrata leaf, Setup Cream at 0.2% — used in traditional hair and scalp preparations, with anti-inflammatory interest.

Melia azadirachta (neem) flower and leaf, DIA Toning at 0.0128% and 0.008% — antimicrobial botanical, and a notable cross-pillar appearance given azadirachtin's role in crop protection.

Ocimum sanctum (holy basil) leaf, DIA Toning at 0.0112% — antioxidant and adaptogenic claims.

Paeonia suffruticosa root, DIA Toning at 0.0025% — paeoniflorin, brightening interest.

Ficus carica (fig) fruit, two Youlief products at 0.0075% — contains proteolytic enzymes, so mild enzymatic activity is plausible.

Cynara scolymus (artichoke) leaf, Setup Cream at 0.00045% — cynaropicrin, anti-glycation interest; also in Vegalab's contour complex.

Avena sativa (oat) kernel, Setup Cream at 0.00045% — avenanthramides, well-evidenced anti-itch actives, though not at this level.

Artemisia annua, Nelumbo nucifera flower and Oryza sativa (rice) in the Cica Retinal Ampoule, all at unstated levels.

Aloe ferox leaf, Artemisia capillaris, Hippophae rhamnoides (sea buckthorn), Daucus carota root, Prunus armeniaca juice, Pyrus malus fruit, Rosa canina fruit, Moringa oleifera seed oil and Hedychium coronarium root across the Youlief sunscreens, levels unstated.

Vegalab's range adds red clover (Biochanin A), peach bark, astragalus, saposhnikovia, gastrodia, calendula, witch hazel, Damask rose hydrosol, cinnamon bark, ginger root and red galangal.

An honest note on diamond powder

Both Youlief DIA serums list diamond powder at 0.0000001% — one part per billion. At that level it cannot exfoliate, scatter light or do anything else. It is a label ingredient supporting the product name, and a reference page should say so plainly rather than describe a function.

Sensitisation

Botanical extracts are the most common source of contact allergy in cosmetics, and "natural" does not mean low-risk. Cinnamon bark and ginger in particular warrant a note for reactive skin, and anyone with known plant allergies should read ingredient lists rather than trust category claims.