Beauty Science · Ingredient Library · Tier Tier 1

Melatonin in skincare

Better known as a sleep hormone, but a capable antioxidant with a legitimate topical rationale — and some claims that outrun the evidence.

What is melatonin in skincare?

Melatonin is an indoleamine hormone produced by the pineal gland, governing circadian rhythm. Less widely known is that skin synthesises melatonin locally and expresses melatonin receptors, so a topical application is not as incongruous as it first appears.

What it does

Its best-supported cosmetic property is antioxidant activity. Melatonin scavenges free radicals directly, and unusually its metabolites are also antioxidants, giving a cascade effect. It also supports endogenous antioxidant enzymes. There is reasonable evidence for protection against UV-induced oxidative damage when applied before exposure.

Small, lipophilic and around 232 daltons, it has favourable properties for skin penetration — one of the more formulation-friendly actives.

Where claims outrun evidence

Two places. First, "night repair" positioning implies that topical melatonin synchronises skin's circadian biology; local receptor expression makes that plausible but it is not demonstrated for cosmetic application. Second, claims about improving sleep from a topical product are unsupported and should not be made — systemic absorption from a cosmetic dose is not established, and a product implying a sleep effect is making a drug claim.

Where does melatonin in skincare appear in the range?

Vegalab uses melatonin in the Aqua Infusion Mist, alongside niacinamide, squalane, ceramide and oat extract — positioned for antioxidant support against environmental stress, which is the defensible framing.

Is melatonin in skincare safe?

Well tolerated topically at cosmetic levels. Anyone taking oral melatonin or with a hormone-sensitive condition who is concerned about a topical product should raise it with a clinician rather than rely on an ingredient page.

References

  1. Topical melatonin in combination with vitamins E and C protects skin from ultraviolet-induced erythema: a human study in vivoBr J Dermatol 139(2):332-339, 1998 · RCT double-blind human in vivo · Funding not determined
  2. Melatonin: A Cutaneous Perspective on its Production, Metabolism, and FunctionsJ Invest Dermatol 138(3):490-499, 2018 · Authoritative review · Funding not determined
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