Beauty Science · Ingredient Library · Tier Tier 1

Silk proteins: fibroin and sericin

Two proteins from the same cocoon with different jobs. Fibroin is the structural fibre, sericin the glue that holds it — and sericin is the more interesting one for skin.

What is Silk proteins: fibroin and sericin?

Silk cocoons are made of two proteins. Fibroin is the structural core fibre, a highly crystalline protein of large molecular weight. Sericin is the gum surrounding it, and is conventionally discarded in silk processing — which is why it became available cheaply as a cosmetic ingredient. Both are used hydrolysed in skincare.

What each does

Fibroin forms smooth, flexible films and is valued for the surface feel it gives and for its biocompatibility; it is also studied extensively as a biomaterial scaffold. In skincare its contribution is largely film-forming and sensory, with moisture retention as a consequence.

Sericin is more biologically interesting. It is rich in serine and other hydroxy amino acids, giving it strong water-binding capacity, and it has been studied for reduction of transepidermal water loss, antioxidant activity and effects relevant to atopic and dry skin conditions. Where a silk claim has substance, sericin usually carries it.

Where does Silk proteins: fibroin and sericin appear in the range?

Vegalab's Age Repair and Hyaluronic Skin Repair NanoSerums both use fibroin and sericin, described together as a silk-protein resilience complex. The pairing is sensible: fibroin for film and feel, sericin for hydration and antioxidant contribution.

What does Silk proteins: fibroin and sericin not do?

Neither penetrates to the dermis or contributes to your own structural proteins. Silk protein does not tighten skin in any lasting sense — the immediate smoothing is a film effect that washes off. And silk is an animal-derived material, which matters for readers who care about that.

References

  1. Silk sericin as a moisturizer: an in vivo studyJ Cosmet Dermatol 4(4):250-257, 2005 · In vivo human, TEWL/impedance/hydroxyproline · Funding not determined
  2. Silk-Based Biomaterials in Cutaneous Wound Healing: A Systematic ReviewAdv Skin Wound Care 31(12):565-573, 2018 · Systematic review · Funding not determined
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