Beauty Science · Ingredient Library · Tier Tier 1

Ergothioneine

An amino acid antioxidant that cells actively transport rather than passively absorb — which makes it unusual, and unusually interesting.

What is ergothioneine?

L-ergothioneine is a sulphur-containing histidine derivative synthesised by certain fungi and bacteria but not by plants or animals. Humans obtain it from diet, particularly mushrooms, and — the striking part — we have a dedicated transporter for it, OCTN1, expressed in tissues under oxidative stress. A body that builds a specific transporter for a compound it cannot make is generally worth paying attention to.

What it does

It is a potent antioxidant, notably stable and, unlike many antioxidants, not readily auto-oxidising. It accumulates in cells via OCTN1 and concentrates in mitochondria, where much oxidative damage originates. Reported activity includes protection of mitochondrial DNA, chelation of divalent metal ions and scavenging of several reactive species.

For skin the interest is protection against UV and pollution-driven oxidative stress, with evidence largely at cell and tissue level rather than clinical endpoints.

Why it is under-covered

Very little consumer-facing material exists on ergothioneine, and almost none of it explains the transporter mechanism that makes it distinctive. That is an opening: this is a genuinely interesting molecule where a clear, honest explanation would be the best available reference on the open web.

Where does ergothioneine appear in the range?

Vegalab uses it in the Bio-Thread Eye & Neck Cream, alongside peptides, hydrolysed collagen and recombinant elastin.

What does ergothioneine not do?

It is not a substitute for sun protection. Its evidence base is mechanistic rather than clinical, so claims should stay at the level of antioxidant support. And dietary and topical ergothioneine are separate propositions.

References

  1. The ergothioneine transporter controls and indicates ergothioneine activity - a reviewPrev Med 54(Suppl):S71-S74, 2012 · Review by the transporter's discoverer · Funding not determined
  2. Dermato-protective properties of ergothioneine through induction of Nrf2/ARE-mediated antioxidant genes in UVA-irradiated human keratinocytesFree Radic Biol Med 86:102-117, 2015 · In vitro keratinocyte with siRNA knockdown · Funding not determined
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