Oily skin

Oily skin, in short

Oily skin produces more sebum than it needs, so it shines by midday, shows its pores and wears through makeup. It still needs water and a light moisturizer; stripping the oil away leaves it tight while the oil returns. The routine below keeps the steps light and puts an oil-soluble exfoliant where it helps.

This page is part of the skin types guide.

What oily skin looks and feels like

• Shine across the forehead, nose and chin by midday, often on the cheeks too.
• Pores that look larger, most of all on the nose and inner cheeks.
• Makeup that slides or breaks up over the course of the day.
• A thicker-feeling surface that can look uneven in texture.
• Sometimes tightness after washing. That is dehydration sitting on top of oiliness, and it is common.

If the shine stops at the T-zone and the cheeks feel normal or dry, you are more likely combination.

Why it happens

Sebum comes from glands attached to each hair follicle, and they are densest on the face, scalp and upper chest. Their output is driven mostly by hormones, especially androgens, and set by genetics, age and climate: oil output tends to be higher in heat and humidity and in the teens to thirties, and to fall later in life.

Harsh cleansing removes surface oil and water together. The oil returns within hours; the water deficit stays, which is why over-washed oily skin often feels tight and shiny at the same time.

What to look for in ingredients

• Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, so it works along the pore lining as well as on the surface. It is the most useful single exfoliant for oily skin.
• Niacinamide has been studied for the look of shine and visible pores.
• Light humectants such as sodium PCA hydrate without weight.
• Tea tree oil appears in many products for oily skin; it is also a common trigger for skin that reacts.

A label that says "oil-free" or "non-comedogenic" tells you less than it seems to. See the non-comedogenic myth.

A Vegalab routine for oily skin

Cleanse, Treat, Seal, the starter routine set up for oil.

Morning

1. Cleanse. Bright Micro Bubble Cleanser, lukewarm water.
2. Tone, optional. Marine Balancing Toner, pressed in, not wiped.
3. Treat. Hydrating NanoSerum on damp skin.
4. Seal. A thin layer of AquaCell Moisturizer.
5. Protect. A daily broad-spectrum sunscreen, any brand, in a light texture. Vegalab does not sell a sunscreen.

Evening

Cleanse, tone, then Clarifying NanoSerum instead of Hydrating, and a thin layer of AquaCell Moisturizer. Start Clarifying on alternate evenings and build up.

Per-product notes

Ingredient notes describe the sealed vial set formulas.

• Clarifying NanoSerum contains salicylic acid, alcohol, rosemary leaf extract and tea tree leaf oil. It is not fragrance free and not alcohol free. Hydrating NanoSerum contains no fragrance.
• Patch test Clarifying first if your skin reacts easily. See patch testing.
• Clarifying is an exfoliating step. Do not layer it with another exfoliant in the same application.

The advanced routine shows how to run two NanoSerums, morning and evening, once the basics are settled.

What to avoid

• Washing more than twice a day, or with water hot enough to leave the skin red.
• Alcohol-heavy toners used to "dry out" shine. Shine returns and the tightness stays.
• Skipping moisturizer. Use less of it, not none.
• Heavy occlusive creams across the T-zone.
• Combining several exfoliating products in one routine and calling it a stronger routine.

Related concerns and skin types

• Visible pores and texture, and why pore size cannot be shrunk
• Hydration and barrier
• Dry skin, for the difference between dry and dehydrated

For professionals

The dehydrated oily skin protocol corrects over-cleansing before anything else. The congestion and visible pores protocol adds a resurfacing step from week three. In clinic, chemical peels and hydradermabrasion are the usual resurfacing options for oily skin.

When to see a dermatologist

See a dermatologist for deep, painful or persistent bumps, sudden changes in oiliness, or oiliness that arrives with other changes such as new or coarser facial hair.