Visible pores and texture

Visible pores and texture, in short

Pores look larger when they fill with oil and shed cells, when the surface around them is rough, and when the skin around them looks less firm. None of this changes the pore itself, but all of it changes how visible it is. An oil-soluble exfoliant, a light routine and daily sunscreen are what help, and the page below explains why. It is one of the Beauty Science concerns.

What it looks like

• Openings that are easy to see at conversational distance, mostly on the nose, inner cheeks, forehead and chin.
• Pores that look darker, because the material inside them has oxidized at the surface.
• An uneven, slightly bumpy surface that catches light and makeup.
• On mature skin, pores that look elongated or teardrop-shaped on the cheeks.

Why it happens

Oil output. Pores sit at the opening of oil-producing follicles. Studies of facial skin have linked higher sebum output with larger-looking pores, which is why they are most visible where oil glands are densest (Roh et al., 2006).

What fills them. A mix of sebum and shed cells collects in the opening. When it sits in the pore, the pore is stretched and outlined; when it oxidizes at the surface, it darkens.

Support around the opening. With age and sun exposure, the skin around each pore loses firmness in appearance, and the opening sags into a longer, more visible shape.

Genetics. Pore size varies between people with the same routine. It cannot be shrunk permanently; see the pore size myth.

What helps

• Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, so it works along the lining of the pore as well as on the surface. It is the most relevant single exfoliant for visible pores.
• AHAs, such as glycolic and lactic acid, loosen the bonds between surface cells and smooth texture. They are water-soluble and act mostly at the surface (Kornhauser et al., 2010).
• Niacinamide has been studied for the look of shine and pores.
• Tea tree oil is common in products for oily skin and is also a common trigger for skin that reacts.
• Hydration. A dehydrated surface looks rougher, and pores on it look more obvious.
• Daily sunscreen, because sun exposure is a large part of the loss of firmness around pores.

How often. Start any exfoliating product on two evenings a week, not consecutive. Move to every other evening after two weeks, and to nightly only if the skin stays comfortable. Use one exfoliating product at a time.

A routine for visible pores

Built on the starter routine, with one exfoliating step. The advanced routine shows how it fits with a second serum.

Morning: Bright Micro Bubble Cleanser, a hydrating serum, a thin layer of moisturizer, and a broad-spectrum sunscreen of any brand.

Evening: cleanse, then either Resurfacing Cleansing Peel as the cleanse on its evenings, or Clarifying NanoSerum after toning with Marine Balancing Toner. Not both on the same evening. Seal with a thin layer of AquaCell Moisturizer.

Per-product notes

Ingredient notes describe the sealed vial set formulas.

• Resurfacing Cleansing Peel is an active step, not an ordinary cleanse. Count it as your exfoliant on the evenings you use it.
• Clarifying NanoSerum contains salicylic acid, alcohol, rosemary leaf extract and tea tree leaf oil. It is not fragrance free and not alcohol free. Patch test first if your skin reacts easily.
• Keep occlusive creams off the areas where pores are most visible.

Oily and combination skin have their own pages: oily skin and combination skin.

Professional options

In the clinic, the congestion and visible pores protocol assesses tolerance first and adds a resurfacing step from week three, on alternate weeks. The combination-skin balancing protocol treats the T-zone and cheeks separately. Treatments that address surface texture include chemical peels and microdermabrasion and hydradermabrasion.

Related myths and concerns

• Pores can be shrunk permanently
• What "non-comedogenic" means
• Dullness and radiance, where texture and light meet
• Hydration and barrier, because a dehydrated surface shows pores more

When to see a dermatologist

See a dermatologist for deep, tender or persistent bumps, or for texture changes that appear suddenly or spread.

References

The studies below describe the ingredient itself.

1. Roh M, Han M, Kim D, Chung K. Sebum output as a factor contributing to the size of facial pores. British Journal of Dermatology. 2006;155(5):890-894.
2. Kornhauser A, Coelho SG, Hearing VJ. Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2010;3:135-142.