How nano-encapsulation works
In brief
Nano-encapsulation wraps an active ingredient in a microscopic shell before it goes into the serum. The shell protects the active from oxygen, light and pH while it sits in the bottle, then releases it gradually on the skin surface. Vegalab's platform for this is NanoVeil, described in full on the Technology hub.
The problem a shell solves
Many actives are fragile in water. Some oxidize on contact with dissolved oxygen, some break down under light, and some change form when the pH of the base moves. In a conventional serum the active is dissolved or dispersed straight into the base, so every one of those stresses reaches it from the day the batch is made.
Formulators work around this with airless packs, opaque bottles, antioxidants and narrow pH windows. Encapsulation adds a further layer of defense at the level of the active itself. The detail of each stress, and what a shell does about it, is on Stability and protection.
What NanoVeil builds
NanoVeil is Vegalab's multi-layer nano-encapsulation platform. NanoVeil builds a multi-layer biopolymer shell around an active, up to 20 programmable layers, so the active is held stable until defined conditions release it.
The shell is assembled layer by layer. Biopolymer layers are deposited in turn around a core, and each layer binds to the one beneath it. The number and order of layers is chosen per active. That is what "programmable" refers to: the layer design is set to suit the active and the formula it goes into. How this compares with liposomes, niosomes and other carriers is on Carrier systems compared. What the capsule measures, and what that figure tells you, is on Particle size.
What happens, in four stages
1 An open active
In a conventional base, the active meets oxygen, light and pH changes directly.
2 The shell is built
NanoVeil builds a multi-layer biopolymer shell around the active, up to 20 layers.
3 Held stable in the bottle
Inside the shell, the active is held apart from the stresses in the formula.
4 Released on the skin surface
On the skin surface, the shell releases the active gradually rather than all at once.
In the bottle. The capsule sits suspended in the serum. The active is held inside the shell, apart from the water, dissolved oxygen and pH of the surrounding base.
On application. The serum is spread by hand like any leave-on serum.
On the skin surface. The shell releases the active gradually rather than all at once. Release follows conditions the shell was designed for. It is a property of the formulation, and Controlled release sets out what the term means.
Encapsulated vs conventional serum
The table compares formulation facts only.
| Formulation fact | Conventional serum | Encapsulated serum (NanoVeil) |
|---|---|---|
| Where the active sits | Dissolved or dispersed directly in the base | Inside a multi-layer biopolymer shell, suspended in the base |
| Exposure to oxygen, light and pH in the bottle | Direct, from the day of manufacture | Buffered by the shell |
| How the active becomes available | All at once, as soon as the serum is applied | Gradually, as the shell releases it |
| What sets the design | Choice of active, base and pack | Choice of active, base and pack, plus the number and order of shell layers |
| Amount of active in the bottle | Stated in the ingredient declaration | Stated in the ingredient declaration |
Pack matters as much as carrier. The sealed vial sets add a second layer of protection at the container level: the vials and stoppers are sterilized before filling, and the serum is a preserved cosmetic formulation. Format detail is on The sealed vial format.
The evidence behind this page
The statements above are formulation characteristics. Each carries a claim ID and an evidence level, and the records sit in the Beauty Science evidence hub. How the levels work is on Evidence levels. For terms used here, see the delivery technology glossary and the literature overview on delivery systems.
The formulas this page explains
Each NanoSerum is available as a sealed vial set for the treatment room and, for most formulas, a 30 ml bottle for home use.
- Hyaluronic Skin Repair NanoSerum: sealed vial set and 30 ml
- Hydrating NanoSerum: sealed vial set and 30 ml
- Brightening NanoSerum: sealed vial set and 30 ml
- Clarifying NanoSerum: sealed vial set and 30 ml
- Age Repair NanoSerum: sealed vial set and 30 ml
- Sculpting NanoSerum: sealed vial set
- Scalp Repair NanoSerum: 30 ml
Not sure which formula suits you? The Routine Finder matches formula to skin in a few questions.
Frequently asked questions
What does the shell actually do?
It holds the active apart from the water, oxygen, light and pH of the surrounding formula, so the active stays stable for longer than it would in an open base. On the skin surface, the shell releases the active gradually rather than all at once. <!-- CLM-BS-0042, CLM-BS-0043 -->
Is an encapsulated serum stronger than a conventional one?
Encapsulation sets how an active is held and released. Strength is set by the formula and stated in the ingredient declaration on each product page.
Does the serum need a device to work?
No. The serum is a leave-on cosmetic designed to be applied by hand.
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