Published research on our ingredients

In brief

This page summarizes peer-reviewed research on ingredients that appear in the ingredient lists of Vegalab NanoSerums. The studies below describe the ingredients themselves, as published in scientific journals. Each entry links to the public source, so the original paper can be read in full. More on each ingredient is in the ingredient library.

Niacinamide

In a double-blind, randomized, split-face study, 50 women applied a moisturizer with 5% niacinamide to one side of the face and the same moisturizer without it to the other, for 12 weeks. The niacinamide side showed a greater improvement in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots and skin elasticity. More on the ingredient: niacinamide.

Source: Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):860-865. doi:10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732

Sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid)

In a 60-day randomized, vehicle-controlled study, 76 women aged 30 to 60 applied creams with 0.1% hyaluronic acid of five different molecular weights, from 50 to 2,000 kDa, around one eye twice a day, with a vehicle cream around the other. Every hyaluronic acid cream improved skin hydration and elasticity, and the lower molecular weights, 50 and 130 kDa, gave the greatest reduction in wrinkle depth. More on the ingredient: hyaluronic acid.

Source: Pavicic T, Gauglitz GG, Lersch P, et al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. 2011;10(9):990-1000. PubMed 22052267

Centella asiatica

This review describes the active compounds of Centella asiatica, mainly the pentacyclic triterpenes asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. It collects the published laboratory and clinical research on their use in cosmetic formulas, including formulas for photoaged skin and stretch marks. More on the ingredient: centella asiatica.

Source: Bylka W, Znajdek-Awiżeń P, Studzińska-Sroka E, Brzezińska M. Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Postepy Dermatologii i Alergologii. 2013;30(1):46-49. doi:10.5114/pdia.2013.33378

Glycolic acid

This review covers the alpha-hydroxy acids used on skin, including glycolic and lactic acid, and their use as superficial peeling agents. Its central finding is that the effect depends on concentration: at low concentrations the reviewed studies report photoprotective effects, and at high concentrations they report phototoxicity. More on the ingredient: glycolic acid.

Source: Tang SC, Yang JH. Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin. Molecules. 2018;23(4):863. doi:10.3390/molecules23040863

Lactic acid

Volunteers applied lotions with 5% or 12% lactic acid twice a day for three months. The 12% lotion increased the firmness and thickness of both the epidermis and the dermis, with visible improvement in the skin, while the 5% lotion acted on the surface and the epidermis only. More on the ingredient: lactic acid.

Source: Smith WP. Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 1996;35(3 Pt 1):388-391. doi:10.1016/S0190-9622(96)90602-7

Salicylic acid

This review describes salicylic acid as a peeling agent suitable for all skin types. It explains that salicylic acid loosens the bonds between the cells of the stratum corneum, which is how it exfoliates the skin surface. More on the ingredient: salicylic acid.

Source: Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2015;8:455-461. doi:10.2147/CCID.S84765

Ectoin

Ectoin is a compatible solute made by microorganisms that live in extreme environments. This review describes its strong water-binding capacity, its protection of cell membranes against surfactants, and topical studies showing support for the skin barrier. More on the ingredient: ectoin.

Source: Graf R, Anzali S, Buenger J, Pfluecker F, Driller H. The multifunctional role of ectoine as a natural cell protectant. Clinics in Dermatology. 2008;26(4):326-333. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2008.01.002

Sericin (silk protein)

Sericin is the protein that coats the silk fiber. In this in vivo study, a topically applied sericin gel increased skin hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss, the rate at which water leaves the skin surface. More on the ingredient: silk proteins.

Source: Padamwar MN, Pawar AP, Daithankar AV, Mahadik KR. Silk sericin as a moisturizer: an in vivo study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2005;4(4):250-257. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2005.00200.x

Panthenol

Healthy volunteers applied formulations with 0.5%, 1.0% or 5.0% panthenol to the forearm every day for 30 days, and skin moisture and transepidermal water loss were measured. The higher concentrations significantly reduced transepidermal water loss after 30 days of use. More on the ingredient: panthenol.

Source: Camargo FB Jr, Gaspar LR, Maia Campos PM. Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2011;62(4):361-370. PubMed 21982351

How this research is used

Published research on an ingredient informs how Vegalab chooses and combines ingredients. Claims about a Vegalab product rest on evidence about that product, graded as set out on evidence levels and how we test. The claims for each formula are indexed on the evidence hub. The rules for what Vegalab says are in the science and claims charter.