Beauty Science · What Doesn't Work

Do silicones suffocate skin?

Silicone films are water-vapour permeable. In direct comparison with petrolatum, silicone excipients showed TEWL no different from untreated control skin.

MYTHmeasured water loss under silicone was no different from bare skin

The claim

Silicones form an occlusive film that traps debris, clogs pores and prevents skin from breathing.

What the evidence actually shows

A study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology compared silicones directly against petrolatum. Petrolatum formed a genuinely occlusive layer that raised hydration for more than four hours. The silicone excipients' transepidermal water loss values were not significantly different from untreated control skin.

That is the whole claim answered. Silicone polymers form a film with a molecular structure that permits water vapour through — they are described in the paper's title as nonocclusive topical agents. If water vapour passes, the "suffocation" premise fails, and skin does not respire through its surface in any case; the epidermis is supplied by the dermal circulation.

The pore-clogging claim also runs into a size problem. Common cosmetic silicones such as dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane are large molecules that sit on the surface and are removed by ordinary cleansing. There is no established comedogenic mechanism, and the ingredients are among the better-tolerated materials in cosmetic use, with very low sensitisation rates.

Where a real concern exists

Not skin, but environment. Some cyclic silicones — notably D4, D5 and D6 — have been the subject of environmental persistence and bioaccumulation assessment and regulatory restriction in some jurisdictions. That is a legitimate reason someone might choose to avoid them, and it is a completely different argument from the skin-health one. Making the environmental case honestly is stronger than making the suffocation case inaccurately.

What to do instead

If silicones suit your skin, use them; they are excellent at what they do, which is sensory feel, film-forming and reducing the appearance of texture. If you want to avoid them for environmental reasons, do so on those grounds.

References

  1. Silicones as Nonocclusive Topical Agents — Skin Pharmacol Physiol 27(3):164-171, 2014 · PMID 24457536 — silicone TEWL not significantly different from untreated skin, unlike petrolatum. Note: silicone excipients supplied for testing; verify supplier disclosureIdentifier pending
Entries marked identifier pending are real, locatable sources for which a stable identifier (DOI, PubMed ID or publisher URL) has not yet been recorded, so they are listed without a link rather than linked to an unverified destination.
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